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Have You Tried A Reversing Ring

If You're Thinking About It, You Want This Info

Created On: 05/26/2012 09:29 PM

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 05/26/2012 09:29 PM
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Chris Edwards
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So I love looking at macro shots. Being that I happen to have a camera and also love taking photos I thought I'd give macro a try myself. A dedicated macro lens can be had but usually at a significant cost. There are some older lens floating around one of the auction sites that can get you into a macro lens for around $200 but that's still a large chunk of change for me to drop on something I'm not sure about yet.

I came across "lens reversing" on a Flickr forum dedicated to macro photography using this type of set up. It's budget friendly and lets you play around some. There are a few snags that I'm still working through and if there's any interest in this I will update in the next couple weeks.

What I've found so far is this. There are rings you can purchase from those online auction sites that will allow you to mount a lens backward on your camera body using the lenses filter threads. I picked one up for $5. It's solid metal and fits the camera body without any slop or fudging. The threaded side is a fixed size. In my case it's 49mm to fit the 50mm lens from my newly acquired Praktica film camera. The film camera was $15 at the local Goodwill. So now I also have a great tool to play with to work on thinking about exposure before snapping. Trying to make exposure more of an intuitive process. But I digress. I'm into my macro experiment for $20 at this point and learned a pretty good lesson. When you reverse the lens you no longer have aperture control so you need a lens with an aperture ring to control aperture. The aperture has really no noticeable effect on DOF it's used more for controlling light. You also have no auto focus and this part gets tricky. The area of the reversed lens that your camera will see to capture the photo is the front element. In the case of my 50mm, there is some curvature to the front element. This results in a very, very small area of focus. I actually measured it to be about 7mm. That's not just front to back either, that's also side to side. I'm almost positive it's because of the curvature of the front element. I also had to be about 5-6" (13-15cm) from the subject to get that into focus. Handheld would be impossible. Camera needs to be on a tripod and either tripod or subject need to be moved to assist focus.

What I want to try is a longer focal length lens with a flatter front element. None of my current lenses have a 49mm filter thread. I'm looking for a fixed length long lens at a reasonable price to test my theory and hopefully get some shots worth posting. If you're interested or have any input, please jump in.

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 06/03/2012 12:14 AM
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Rob Schumann
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Hi Chris,

The shallow dof you are seeing is a consequence of the magnification. If you reverse a longer lens then the magnification will be less, and so dof will be more.

The 'tunnel vision' appearance is due to the optics not bringing a flat object in front of the camera to a flat focus at the sensor... If you focus on the centre of the frame then points away from the optical axis are actually progressively further away (pythagoras theorem), and with such shallow dof then these off-axis points rapidly fall out of focus.

One other method which helps a bit is to reverse one lens on another, rather than reversing directly onto the camera body... A 50mm reversed on a 100mm will, if memory serves, provide a 2:1 (twice life size) magnification... and very shallow dof, but less of the tunnel vision effect.

I used to do this, but graduated to the Tamron 90/2.8 macro lens a while back for 1:1 hand-held macros.

Having auto-focus for macro isn't that helpful, so I use manual all the time. The trick for hand-held is to lock the arms against your body or some other support, breath out and then rock your body back and forth to get sharp focus. Don't try to focus the lens itself.

You will still get a lot of missed focus shots, but that's really not the problem with digital as it was with film... I used to think myself lucky if I got three keepers from a roll of 36, but it also became very expensive.

If you are using a tripod for macro then a focussing rail is essential, and a lot more precise than trying to move the tripod itself, or the subject in order to achieve focus..

Cheers


Rob


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 06/03/2012 10:37 AM
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Chris Edwards
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Rob,

Thanks for explaining the focus issue. I'm not ready to commit to the Macro/Micro lens yet so I may give the lens on lens a try. How do you like the Tamron 90mm?

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 06/05/2012 10:07 PM
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Rob Schumann
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Hi Chris,

Really like it... It's the pre-digital generation, so a few years old now, and full-frame, which means at APS-C this already excellent lens is being used at it's optical centre.

One benefit is that, compared to lens reversal, the working distance here is 'huge', and so easy to get lighting in, as well as to not spook the subjects.

Although it's auto-focus capable, when using it for macro I only ever use manual focus... manual everything in fact, but then I was raised on manual everything 35mm film cameras, so I've no problem with that.



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 06/06/2012 08:55 AM
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Chris Edwards
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Thanks again for the info. I'll probably end up with a Macro lens in the future. The experimenting is fun but frustrating.

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"Not living the good life but living a good life" - CE

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